Uh oh, quite a bit of controversy these days not only in undivided Andhra, but on ACP 😯 . I will lighten the mood with everyone’s, ok we girls’ favorite topic, fashion! 😎
To recognize the birth this month of India’s 29th state, this week, I will continue our multi-part Spotlight on Sarees from old Andhra with the fourth installment: Gadwal Sarees.
History
Gadwal Sarees are from the town of same name in Palamooru district (Mahbubnagar), Telangana state. If Venkatagiri is luxurious and dignified, then Gadwal is the most impressive saree from Gulti-land. It’s considered a mark of high status.
The brocade weaving skills have been traced by some to Varanasi, though they are said to show no signs of the Banarasi style, and is considered authentically undivided Andhra. While the cotton typically comes from Bangalore and the gold jari from Surat, it is pure Telangana and Telugu.
The colors are very unique (gacchakayyi rangu you don’t see anywhere–“neither green nor grey” color as shown by model above).
Varieties
Originally Cotton, Silk and SICO (silk-cotton mix) varieties have been introduced since.
The traditional cotton version had mulberry or tussar in the border, with unbleached cotton. This cotton variety is known to be very breathable, making it ideal for the hot summers of the South.
Older varieties show earth tones (like gacchakayyi above), but brighter contrasting colors are now becoming popular also.
Everyday and Party wear types of Gadwal are common, but it has long had a reputation as a Puja saree, due to being able to be classy, trendy, and traditional all at the same time!
Characteristics
It is known for a distinctive jari pattern. But it’s really weaving pattern of the body of the saree that stands out for its notable squares, created from “an interlocking weft-technique” known as Kuppadam. Motifs such as nemali (peacock) and rudraksa are also very common.
It is maintenance-heavy, as starch is required to retain its crisp look. Copper, silver, and gold tipped jaris are used.
The real genius of the saree is that it has a reputation for weavers to be able to take the full almost 6 meter long saree and fold it to the size of a matchbox!!
The most impressive saree of old Andhra rashtra, Telangana’s Gadwal gets the Velugu Thalli Stamp of approval!!!
Choodaganey Gadwal ani telusu
As soon as you see, You can tell it’s Gadwal!
References:
- http://www.bharatplaza.com/gadhwal-saree.html
- http://www.deccanherald.com/content/300210/gorgeous-gadwal.html
- http://www.metromela.com/gadwal-sarees-6-yards-of-tradition/
